Owning a Cat: 8 Things to Consider

Before getting a cat, make sure you know what you are letting yourself in for. Despite their perceived independence, cats do need looking after. Here are some things to consider:

1. Your cat can live for up to 20 years. Can you offer continued love and attention for that period of time? remember, as your cat gets older, so do you. They need looking after as they age, just like we do.

2. Where will you be in 5, 10 or 15 years time? Will there be room in your life for a cat?

3. Can you afford the veterinary fees if your cat gets ill? Yearly check-ups are the minimum and your cat will need regular vaccinations and should, ideally, be neutered.

4. You cat will need de-fleaing, de-worming and other routine health maintenance. This all cost time and money.

5. What will happen to your cat when you go on holiday or visiting friends? Catteries cost money and there may not always be friends that can help.

6. Feeding your cat will cost a minimum of $10 per week. Can you afford this expense throughout the life of your cat?

7. Additional items may be needed - a litter tray, bedding, bowls, collars, cat toys and special treats; have you got the room and the money to provide these?

8. Some cats need additional treatments- for example, a long haired cat may need regular grooming; is this a commitment you are prepared to provide?

Owning a cat is a lifelong experience. We all want cats to have a good home and a good life. Make sure, however, that you can provide that for your cat, before you buy.

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The Pros And Cons Of Flushable Cat Litter

If you have cats, no doubt you know that keeping the litter box clean is one of the biggest chores you face. And the odor can be a constant problem no matter what you do. To this end, marketers have tried to come up with ways that will make this chore easier. One of these ways is using flushable cat litter.

Flushable litter can be convenient for owners because instead of having to dispose of clumping or other types of litter in waste receptacles, you can simply flush it down the toilet and get rid of smell and mess in one instant. And indeed, this can be a great convenience for many cat owners.

These litters are often also lighter in texture. Typically, the cost is roughly the same as other types of litters in cost per use. They may appear more expensive because of their lighter weight (for example, if regular clumping clay costs 20 cents a pound and the flushing type costs three times that, this looks more expensive, but you should remember that it will weigh less per use and thus can go farther). They can be hard to find as well, but availability of Internet shopping makes this a relatively minor problem, since owners can have it shipped to them if it is not available in their area.

However, you should know that this has its drawbacks as well. One of these is that you exchange contributing to landfill waste with used litter, for water waste and extra sewage. Therefore, it may not be any more environmentally sound than simply disposing of used litter in the trash. Its advantage is that because the soiled mess is flushed instantly, there is usually much less lingering box odor. In addition, some types of litter can be composted once dried stools are removed. This may be the way to have the least environmental impact from your cat's box.

One other consideration with using flushing versus conventional litter is your cat's "opinion" of the litter itself. Many cats are so used to the regular texture and feel of clay that they will not use the flushing type. In this case, of course, the most important consideration is whether or not your cat will use the box at all. You should keep careful watch to see if you cat does or does not like the flushable litter.

You may be able to get him or her to use it if you began by mixing a small amount of the flushing litter in with your cat's regular litter (without flushing this at first, of course, but disposing in the trash as usual) and gradually increasing the amount of flushable litter and decreasing the amount of the clay until you're using 100% flushable. Even with this type of "break-in" period, some cats never get used to the flushing type and will only stay with tried-and-true clumping variety. However, if your cat does like it, it may be a viable alternative for you.

In short, if you have a cat, your litter box use is going to have at least some environmental impact that will be detrimental. However, flushable cat litter can give you a much "cleaner" way to manage waste than other traditional types. Because they can be flushed and do not have to be thrown away in the trash, it generally makes for much less smell and mess than traditional clays do. The choice is yours, and as always, you should make the best one possible for your lifestyle and preferences. Just remember your cat will likely have the final say.

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What Cats Like To Play With

In order to understand what cats like to play with, you need to first understand the nature of your cat. We call cats pets but actually 90% of their nature is still "wild". Cats don't "think", they act in most cases on their natural instincts.

Cats can be categorized as "sneakers and hunters". They hunt birds, mice and other small animals. Their method is, they sneak as close as possible towards their prey. Then they have the best chances to suddenly appear right next to the prey and grab it. If you understand this hunting behavior, you can have a lot of fun playing with your cat. Playing is absolutely necessary for the health and feelings of your cat. Here are some ideas on how you can do it:

- Take a straw and hide behind a furniture. Leave only a little piece of the straw that can be seen by your cat. Then move the straw backwards, so that the cat can see less of it. I bet you, the cat will jump at it before it's all gone behind the furniture.

- Take a piece of paper and crumple it to a ball. Then put a little cord around it and tie it up. Your cat will love this toy, you can use it for any kind of stuff. You hand hold it just as high that your cat can reach the ball. You can will jump at it. My cat used to do even somersaults when I used that toy.

- Cats will run after all kinds of little balls, like those little ones made of paper. Unfortunately they don't bring the balls back like dogs do it...

- You can use long tiny branches, sticks or blade of gras to play with your cat.

So there are various ways to play with your cat. Keep in mind that they like to chase, hide and creap than you will be able to come up with all kinds of new ideas on how to play with your cat. Be aware that cats don't always want to play. Cats sleep a lot during daytime and they might not want to be boughered. They are just different than dogs, they have their own "will". You can not force a cat to do anything, the cat will show you what it likes and what not, so listen carefully!

Finally you should give your cat the possibility to go outside the house, if possible. Cats love the nature and they love to play in the garden. Don't be afraid that your cat runs away, it will come back if you treated it good... You should get the cat used to be outside the house when it is little, then it will be able to build its natural instincts.

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7 Symptoms of Cat Urinary Tract Infection and What You Can Do About It

Ever wondered how to spot early cat urinary tract infection symptoms? Cat urinary problems are known as silent killers because cats have a high tolerance for pain and often don't even show that they have a problem until it's too late. It pays off to be able to detect the symptoms of infection so you can spot the condition early and treat it at home before it spirals out of control. Here are 7 symptoms to look out for.

1. Is your cat urinating more or less frequently than usual? A change in urination patterns is often one of the earliest symptoms. It helps to know how your cat normally behaves in order to spot a change in urination patterns.

2. Common urinary tract infection symptoms include straining to urinate. If your cat tries to urinate often and only drops of urine come out at a time, it is likely that he is suffering from a UTI.

3. Other cat urinary symptoms include foul-smelling urine. If the urine looks cloudy and smells bad, you can suspect that UTI is the cause.

4. Is your cat urinating outside of his or her litter box? If you notice it urinating in strange places such as the kitchen sink, UTI may be the cause. Because UTIs are painful, your cat probably associates the litter box with the pain and tries to avoid it at all costs.

5. Is your cat grooming his or her genitals often? Frequent grooming of the genitals could mean that it is suffering from swollen, painful genitals from a urinary infection. Bacterial infections will cause its genitals to get inflamed. You should be especially suspicious if your cat is crying while grooming as if he or she were in pain.

6. Surefire cat urinary tract infection symptoms include urine in the blood. Get it to urinate on a light-colored surface if you suspect UTI. If you see traces of blood, take it to the vet as soon as possible.

7. Cat urinary symptoms that you should be concerned about include fever and a swollen, tender abdomen. Furthermore, if your cat is acting lethargic, it's a sign that it may be in the late stages of UTI. Get your cat treated as soon as you can.

So there you have it. These are common cat urinary tract infection symptoms that you should look out for. If you notice any of them, make sure to give your cat a homeopathic remedy. Homeopathic remedies are very helpful in healing infections and preventing recurrence. They will help your cat maintain a healthy bladder, urinary tract, and strong immune system. Remember to keep these symptoms in mind and if you spot even one of them, give your cat a homeopathic remedy. Better yet, give your cat a homeopathic remedy to prevent them occurring altogether.

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Tibetan Mastiff

The latest craze in China is the Tibetan Mastiff. The dog has become a symbol of affluence sought by wealthy Chinese. One wealthy Chinese woman paid $600,000 for an 18 month purebred male.

The Tibetan Mastiff is an ancient breed of dog associated with nomadic cultures of Central Asia. It is considered a holy animal that brings good health and security to its owners. Two types can come from the same litter. The monastery type and the nomad type. The monastery type is bigger and has more facial wrinkling.

Males can reach a height up to 31 inches and a weight up to 180 pounds. The coat color can be black, black and tan, gold, blue/gray, chocolate brown and rarely solid white. It has a long double coat that has an unpleasant smell and sheds throughout the year. It is a primitive breed having the instincts to survive in the wild.

The dog can be very temperamental and exhibit ferocity, aggressiveness and unpredictability. It is an intelligent, strong willed breed but can be an excellent family dog if the owner does not allow it to take control. It is used to guard flocks and is not afraid to confront predators.

It can live up to 14 years. Although it has less genetic health problems than most breeds, it can suffer from hip dysplasia, nerve disease affecting its ability to walk, thyroid problems, skeletal defects and serious ear infections.

The dog starting gaining popularity after 1980, but was considered an uncommon breed. In 2008, it competed in the Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show for the first time. Dog shows in China are being held more frequently exhibiting the breed.

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Blood in Dog Urine - What Does This Mean?

Blood in dog urine could be an un-spayed female going into heat but it can also be the sign of a urinary tract infection, the most common health problem associated with dogs. This type of infection is actually very common but if left untreated, it can cause damage to the bladder and kidneys, and even lead to death. Blood in dog urine is nothing to play around with so if you notice even a small amount, it is important that you seek veterinarian care immediately.

Blood in dog's urine can be something serious or nothing much to worry about at all but we strongly recommend you consider the following information so you will have a much better understanding of a real emergency calling for quick action.

· Fact: blood in dog urine is most commonly associated with a UTI or urinary tract infection just like humans get. This type of infection could have developed within several areas of the bladder system to include the actual bladder, kidneys, or urethra. In most cases, blood in dog urine caused by an UTI is easy to treat. However, if the dog is not treated in a relatively fast time, it could cause serious health problems and unfortunately, even death.

· Another possibility where blood in dog urine is seen is when a female has an infection in the uterus. In this situation, the infection is developing within the vagina, making it hard to identify. The reason is that the blood may only be seen at the time the dog urinates, making it hard to spot. In addition, some degree of normal spotting might also be seen if your female had recently been spayed or had a litter of pups.

· For male dogs, blood in dog urine could be the result of a gland infection specific to the prostrate. Typically, you would notice the male's testicles and penis having some swelling and in this instance, your dog needs to be checked right away.

· Although not as common, this disorder could be from some kind of injury. Sometimes, an animal may fall or even be hit by a car without any telltale signs until the degree of injury increases. Therefore, if there is no viable reason for blood in the dog's urine, take it seriously.

· Bladder or kidney stones can also cause blood in dog urine. Most often, you would notice the dog having a reduced appetite, acting lethargic, and perhaps even whining when trying to urinate.

· Unfortunately, dogs have been known to be poisoned with rat poisoning. This cruel attempt to quiet a barking or mean dog can lead to horrific pain. Even dogs can get into containers out in the garage and become poisoned so be sure to keep anything harmful out of reach from noisy paws.

The bottom line is that blood in dog urine could be caused by numerous things. Therefore, if you have no idea why, seek veterinarian care immediately. In addition, pay close attention to any signs and symptoms that your pet may be displaying. Since infection is often associated with blood in dog's urine, we strongly advise you not take any chances and make sure your dog gets checked out.

Once at the veterinarian's office, your dog will go through a series of tests so the actual culprit can be identified. From there, the proper treatment option would be offered to bring your dog back to full health. In addition, we recommend that you put your pet on a natural supplement that will encourage a healthy bladder so infections that cause blood in dog urine is avoided altogether. These supplements are easy to administer and they work amazingly well. Whether in liquid or granule form, you can simply place the supplement in your dog's mouth each day so you have many years of enjoyment together.

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A Comparison of Cats and Dogs

Cats and dogs represent two totally different characters. In fact, people even classify themselves as either a dog person or a cat person. Cats and dogs are usually compared to each other because they are the favorite pet of the entire world. If someone wants to get a pet they definitely consider buying a cat or a dog. There is a great difference between having a cat as a pet and dog as a pet. If you are confused between buying a dog or a cat you should try to understand their personalities first.

Cats are independent creature while dogs are more social. A dog will come to you running when you return from home and start licking you while a cat might stay at her cushion. Do not think that cats are cold at heart. They might seem indifferent but they do love you like your other pets. They just show their affection whenever they feel like doing so. Quite contrary to the common belief, cats do not like solitude.

Cats are territorial creatures. That is they adapt to the surroundings as well as the people around them. Dogs are just into people. They get attached to only their owners. IF you take a dog to a new home or office they will be happy as long as you stay with them; while cats might get scared and anxious if you take them away from their home.

Dogs can be trained easily by showing them affection and rewarding for their appropriate action. It is hard to teach a cat like this. You can teach a dog to "sit" in five minutes, but it will take weeks to teach a cat to sit. The same thing goes with bad behavior. You can teach a dog what not to do by showing anger or hitting him gently. But his negative reinforcement never works with cats. If they sense danger they will just avoid punishment by running away. See the dog behaves as a group member and stays with the group even if it is punished. The cat; although a part of the group; is independent and will always try to evade punishment.

Cats will share their territory with others as long as they are kept satisfied and their basic needs are met. If you love your cat it will love you back but don't expect it to show affection all the time. It will come and sit besides when it wants to be loved.

Cats and dogs both make a wonderful pet and great addition to your family. With proper care and attention both cats and dogs can be taught all the necessary habits that are demanded from a pet. Both are loving and amiable; although they show their love in different ways. So if you are confused on whether to get a dog or a cat; just ask the question "Are you a dog person or a cat person?"

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Sample Letter That Worked to Get Ex-Girlfriend Back

OK, let's not waste time. When women leave, they're pretty much gone. Getting one to come back is not an easy piece of business. We're not even going to begin talking about how you lost her in the first place or if you should be bothered with a woman who left. We're going to assume that for, whatever reason, you've made the decision to exert the energy. That's it.

There are entire books and video series dedicated to this topic, so this article is for a specific situation, but the principals are essentially useful in many other scenarios. This effective note was used with a woman I met from an internet dating site. We weren't deeply involved, but she had "closed down" and told me to take a hike. The more attractive the woman the more prone they tend to banishing men for small infractions. That's not always the case, it's just one of many reasons. But I was sure I could still have a future with the woman, so I composed an email that brought her back in 2 hours. And I'm very specific about using the word "composed." Because every single word and punctuation was specifically chosen to have a good outcome.

Having said that; I'm coming from a place of sincerity. My feeling is that tricks or cons might be effective, but there is a cost. To both parties. So I took all my personal skill AND I did some reading to refresh myself and refine my tactics. I skimmed 3 books. How to Win Friends and Influence People Carnegie, Get Anyone to do Anything by Lieberman and You Can Save a Relationship by Pemo. Now I'll admit those book titles don't SEEM like staples of sincere communication, but the how you choose to use a thing is up to you.

So below is the note I wrote and under each of the three paragraphs are my comments and explanations indicated by my initials and these brackets [DR-like this]. To start, the note had to be short, it had to look spontaneous. You must NOT look like you're pouring your heart out.

LETTER

None of my mail was from you this week. So I guess you were actually serious! Well, I hope you wont let my error in judgment sour your outlook on online dating. You mentioned once you hadn't been deeply happy in a while and I hope I was able to make the experience (mostly) positive for you and that you don't give up searching. I enjoy it and have met some cool people and hope you do too. [DR-I let a week go by. Too much time and they move on, too soon is obviously a bad choice. I subtly convey that others are getting in touch with me and that I just happen to notice nothing from her. And then I basically say goodbye and good luck. Next I focus on HER needs, she wants happiness and I remind her that WE were getting her there. I close out this section not by wishing her luck with a new man but "people" and a reminder that I'm out there being social with folks].

I screwed up, and misinterpreted our banter but wanted you to know that bringing unhappy feelings into your life is literally the opposite of what I wanted to do for you-and people's feeling are very important to me. Sometimes I assume too much. I see a strong woman and I forget that emotions are a more delicate, and I'll feel bad if I knew I upset you. [DR-Now I take my lumps. Admitting you're responsible is NOT the same as apologizing. You have to be very careful when apologizing with women as a single man. If you seem too weak things can go downhill. But you notice I also compliment a non-physical feature she has].

I think you bring a lot to the table with your loyalty, honesty and strength. Those were the qualities I hoped to build from (although a little more forgiveness wouldn't kill ya!) It's in my nature to correct my wrong turns, so I wanted to shoot you this message. Of, course if you were just trying to send a message that I put my foot in my mouth-I got it! [DR-Point out her good attributes you recognize without fawning. I also show I wanted "us" to do the relationship together-but past tense of course. A little humor to show I'm cool with it ending. Then I imply things might be repairable, and the message was off the cuff. And I close with a face-saving way for her to come back].

So as I said, this situation is specific but the strategy is essentially far ranging. There are lots of blogs where people talk about online dating websites that I read because people tend to relay their experiences, and that's a good way to see what does and what doesn't work for people.

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A Cat's Tail Tells All

Have you ever wondered what your cat is feeling? Did you know that you can tell by the movement of their tail? A cat will convey their emotions through a simple motion of their tale. Just as we can show our feelings without talking through our body language, cats do the same with their tail.

Now to interpret their movements is going to allow you to know exactly what your cat is feeling or experiencing at that moment. This will also help you to leave a cat alone who does not want to be bothered or shower them with love when they want attention.

When your cat's tail is swishing violently back and forth, sometimes called a Sword Tail, it is your indicator that they are agitated or anxious. This movement is also a warning that they could attack at any time. When you see your cat moving its tail in this motion you want to either leave it be and let it relax. You can also try to get its attention away from you or whatever is agitating it, by tossing a toy for it to play with.

A cat will curl up with its tail tucked all around it, showing that it is content. They may also want to keep to themselves for awhile in this position. Wrapping their tail around them also allows them to keep their feet warm and protected.

The tip of your cat's tail will also tell you a lot when you are watching it. If your cat's tail is lowered but the tip is curved upward, also known as the Tip-Off, it could mean that it is very nervous or unsure about its surroundings for something that has gotten its attention. You will want to approach your cat with caution when you see its tail in this position as it could get aggressive. You can soothingly talk to your cat to calm it down. If it continues to hold the tail with the tip curved upward give it space to calm down.

There is one tail position that will portray different emotions depending on other movements of your cat; this position is holding the tail straight up. If your cat is holding its tail straight up or curling slightly means it is in a friendly mood or really happy to see you. When a tail is straight up but quivering, your cat is showing its love. I have only seen this particular tail position in one of my cats. Cuddles used to jump on my lap and her tail would be straight up and quivering, it was a good feeling knowing that she loved me so much. You do however want to watch out for your cat when their tail is straight up and fully bristled, it is angry and is telling you to "Watch Out."

Another tail movement that has more than one meaning is when your cat is swishing its tail back and forth. If the swishing movement is rapid and forceful, your cat is not in the mood to play. However, the opposite is true if the movement is gentle. A swishing motion is often an indication that something has caught your cat's attention. It could be thinking about pouncing on a toy or climbing a tree.

There is one movement that may appear cute or harmless, but if your cat is against something with its tail straight up and quivering it could mean that it is marking that object. This type of tail movement is an indication that it is spraying. If you catch your cat backing up to an object, get its attention away from spraying.

Have you seen your cat's tail bush out to make it look larger than it really is? I have seen this type of tail movement in all of my cats. It is done when they are frightened or very irritated. I have only seen my cats' tail in the bushy position when they get frightened, and it usually occurs when something catches them by surprise.

Another movement that only involves the tip of the tail is a tick tock motion. If the tip of the tail is sharply moving from side to side it is a very good sign that your cat is very irritated and that it wants to be left alone.

Knowing the different movements that your cat's tail make is good to know, but what if your cat does not have a tail? There are breeds of cats that do not have tails, and a cat can also lose its tail in an accident. So how do you know what they are saying? If you have a cat without a tail, listen to its meow, purring, or watch how it is arching its back. It will show you what it is trying to tell you without its tail.

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Why Does My Cat Bite Me - And How Do I Stop It?

Cat biting is the second most common cat behavioral problem after inappropriate cat peeing. Many cat owners just do not understand cat biting behavior, and fail to deal with it properly. Some owners get into a bad relationship with their cats, and end up putting them under. This is very sad. Do not let this happen to you and your cat.

The first question you want to ask yourself is: Does the biting draw blood, and when does it happen? If your cat bites you very often, and frequently draws blood, this is a behavior you want to stop. The best way is to carry a squeeze bottle of water with you. Anytime you are bitten, immediately spray a little bit of water at your cat's face. You want to lightly shock kitty, not drench it. This sends a message to him that biting is not appropriate behavior. If you do this immediately and consistently, you will eventually break your cat of this problem behavior.

Sometimes, you are having fun with kitty, either petting him or playing with him, and he suddenly bites you. You want to take note of his body language - is he sending you a message to "STOP!", or has he just switched to a different game? If he is telling you to stop, then you should stop. Maybe he has gotten bored, or just wants to do something else. You need to respect your cat - that is the only way to have a good relationship with him. On the other hand, if he has switched to a different game, then the ball is in your court. Do you want to play this new game, where he bites you? Or do you want to stop?

Now, you need to know the difference between your cat biting you and nipping you. One draws blood, the other does not. Cat bites which draw blood can be potentially dangerous, and is a behavioral problem you should stop. If kitty just nips you playfully, or gnaws on your knuckles or toes, he is just showing that he loves you. All of you new cat owners out there - this is NOT a problem. Repeat: this is not a problem.

Some cats just do not know how to control their strength. Sometimes, they were removed from their litter-mates or mother too early, and never learned that biting too hard is wrong. Other times, it is the fault of their owners. You may have unknowingly encouraged the cat biting problem. Either way, playtime can get pretty painful - unless you start using cat toys. A plushie or soft, stuffed toy is good. Let kitty play and wrestle with it instead of your fingers. You will both have fun without the pain. Another good toy is a little ball which bounces well. Or something which you can drag along the ground and let your cat chase after it.

Remember, do not over-react when your cat bites you. You need to be sensitive to your cat's moods - is the biting a message, and when is it a behavior problem you need fix?

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How To Stop Your Cat Spraying

The cat backs up to the door, lifts the tail and releases a fine spray of urine. Yes, your cat is spraying. You have a problem. But one you can solve.

Figures from the British Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors say that aggression in dogs and marking behavior in cats are the biggest behavior problems in the UK pet population.

Spraying is marking behavior, not a litter box problem. Sprayed cat urine contains pheromones, a substance that animals use to communicate. Combinations of pheromones work like fingerprints: they identify the cat.

A spraying cat marks his or her territory with cat urine. It simply says: 'This is mine'. You may not like it, but getting angry doesn't help. It may even have an opposite effect: more spraying.

Cats in heat are attracted by the odor of cat urine. For them, spraying is something like an invitation to love. The results may be there in 65 days: a nest of cute little kittens.

Cats do not only spray during sexual encounters. Some also do it during conflicts with other felines, or when they are stressed.

For people the scent is far from pleasant. Thankfully most cats spray outside. But what if you have a cat spraying inside? Do something about it! And yes, that is possible.

The most radical and effective thing you can do is neutering or spaying your cat. Most castrated toms stopped spraying from the day they were operated.

But maybe you have a reason not to neuter your cat. In that case try to find out why your cat sprays.

Maybe it sprays only when it sees another cat. Solution: block the view. Or it sprays because of a conflict with another pet. Keep them separated and problems might be over.

If you don't know why your cat sprays, discuss it with your veterinarian. Chances are he will advice you to spay or neuter. But your vet can also check if there is a medical problem.

Anyway, do not leave this problem unsolved. Cat urine odor and stains can make your home a very uncomfortable place, and your cat will still remain a cat even when it doesn't spray anymore.

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Characteristics of the Boxer

Is A Boxer Right For You?

Country of Origin: Germany
First Registered: 1904
Colors: Fawn, brindle with white markings
Coat Type: Short, glossy and smooth
Height: 21 - 25 inches
Weight: 66 - 70 lbs.
Life Span: 10 - 12 Years
Average Litter Size: 5 - 10
Health Concerns:. May have problems with heart murmurs, skin tumors, digestive problems and hypothyroidism
Temperament: good-natured, affectionate, sociable, headstrong, high-energy

Active, playful, loyal, family oriented, are just a few of the characteristics of the boxer. A breed full of love for people and a zest for life, the boxer can be an ideal family dog. The boxer is unlike any other breed. Often described as the "clown," of the dog community, boxers are a class all their own.. Those who own boxers can attest to their unique characteristics.

With their lean muscular builds, smooth coats, and square stance, the boxer is truly an impressive looking animal. Being a working class breed, the boxer demonstrates an instinctive willingness to please, while at the same time showing an alertness, caution and courage in the face of the unknown.

However, the boxer is NOT for everyone. Being a breed of high-energy, they require plenty of love, and even more patience.

So, if you are considering owning a boxer, web-rover.com offers some information on this wonderful breed.

Origin

Originally breed in Germany, it is believe that the boxer is of Brabanter Bullenbessier descent. The Bullenbeisser was used by the elite to hunt wild boar in and around the 1800's In order to prevent injury during the hunt, the ears were cropped.

As time passed the the Barbanter Bullenbeisser was used by cattle dealers, and by the end of the 1800's was officially recognized as a working class dog. As well as being renowned for being an intelligent working dog, the Barbanter Bullenbessier was recognized as an excellent companion dog who was always eager to please humans.. When not working, the breed was known to be an excellent family pet, who was great with children.

It is believed that around 1830, the Babnanter Bullenbeisser was bred with an early breed of the English Bulldog, and thus, the boxer was born.

In the early days of the breed, many changes took place. Many older pictures show boxers as being white. It is believed that white boxers were no longer accepted because in order to be police dogs, a darker coat was needed. Therefore, the Boxer Klub of Germany set the breed standard to no longer allow white boxers. To this day, there is still huge debate over white boxers.

Typical Boxer Characteristics

- The boxer is an extremely high-energy dog. As a result, they need a great deal of attention and supervision.

- The boxer is an intelligent dog. As should be with all dogs, the boxer needs obedience training on a regular basis starting from a young pup. Being a bright energetic breed, they will find many ways to get in to trouble if not properly trained and watched.

- Boxers are typically great with children. If properly socialized from a pup, the boxer makes an ideal playmate.

The boxer is a natural guardian. Always alert, the boxer is on constant guard. Usually weary of strangers, and always protective of their people.

- The boxer temperament is "fundamentally playful," but if treated will display unwavering courage..

Here are some "other" Characteristics of the boxer that you most likely wont find in any dog book:

laying on back, feet up, not a care!
GAS...bad gas
Kidney Beans (the boxer dance)
Boxer Woo Woo Song
Catching bugs
Using paws in cat like movements
Zipping around the backyard for no apparent reason.
Bounces like a rabbit when running at times
The "woo woo" song
Lay their head on you like it is too heavy to hold up!
Constantly following their humans wherever they go.

So is a boxer right for you?

The boxer is an affectionate loyal dog, that if treated with love and respect can be a wonderful addition to any household. Yet the boxer is also a a dog with very high energy, who will need strict obedience and even more patience.. The key is to properly socialize and train your dog from a young age. By doing so, you and your dog will both enjoy your time together more more.

So If you are looking for a dog who will lay at your feet, only occasionally moving to eat, or keeps to himself and requires little attention,then maybe a boxer isn't exactly what you need. But If you want a dog who is full of life and a constant source of entertainment then perhaps a boxer is exactly what you need.

For more great info on the boxer, visit web-rover.com and check out the boxer forum.

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What to Do When Your Dog Or Cat Won't Eat

Your dog won't eat. Or your cat is a picky eater. So what on earth do you do?

First, a caveat. No animal will willingly starve itself. But ALWAYS have your pet seen by a vet when there's a change in behavior. You need to rule out illness before embarking on solving a pet's eating problem. Be sure to check for a bad tooth as this is often overlooked as a cause of eating issues. The second caveat: Eating problems can be complex and the tips offered here are simplistic. I offer them with 30 years of experience as a dog owner, breeder, handler and fancier in the world of dogs, but you should discuss them with your vet to see if any are a plausible remedy for your pet's situation.

We'll start with dogs, and assuming that your dog is healthy but not a good eater, here are some potential reasons why and ideas for fixing it.

If you feed your dog treats during the day, stop. You want your dog hungry at meal times.If your dog is a show dog, remember that bait should be offered in TINY pieces, it's not meant to be dinner. When it comes to meals, put the dog's food bowl on the floor, give her 10 minutes to eat it, and if it isn't touched, pick it up and put it away. Don't feed again until the next meal, and resist the temptation to give treats. Do this for a whole week because what you're doing here is behavior modification. Remember, a healthy dog won't starve itself to death, but a stubborn, healthy dog could modify YOUR behavior if you cave in.

If you change pet foods frequently, stop. Frequent diet changes can create a finicky eater. The dog learns to "holdout" to see what will be offered next. When you find a nutritious diet your pet will eat, stay with it. If you MUST change the pet's diet, do it gradually over a two week period. Add a small amount of the new diet to the old food, and each day, increase the amount of the new feed while decreasing the amount of the current food. This gradual change will help prevent diarrhea, vomiting and finicky eating.

With picky eaters, it's important to feed a "super premium" brand of dog food. These foods cost a little more and are made with better ingredients, but they are nutritionally dense. This means that your dog is actually eating less in quantity than the cheaper brands bought at grocery stores (these foods have the nutritional value of bark), but because there are more "calories per cup" in a premium food, they're actually getting more nutrition. Look for brands such as Merrick's "Grammy's Pot Pie" (canned food), California Natural, Prarie, Canidae, Flint River, Nutro, Wellness, Eagle Pack Holistic or Nutrisource.

Mixing kibble with a small amount of canned dog food and water will also make it enticing. This next part is important: The single most natural way to increase a pet's appetite is to warm their food because it increases the smell and makes it more appetizing.

Perhaps your dog has a health issue or is on a medication that makes him not want to eat. She's under a vet's care, but the task of getting nutrition into her falls on you. Now what? First, understand that the less a dog eats, the less he WANTS to eat. Add to that the dog who comes to associate food with nausea and you have a real problem, so the sooner you can get your dog to WANT to eat on his own, the better. So much for the obvious.

We'll start with the simplest remedies and work our way up to a radical solution that worked for one of my dogs. Assuming that your dog is on a high quality feed but still not eating, you may need to go to the next step: making dog food taste even better.

You don't want to make these next foods a daily staple, mostly because the high sodium content of many of them would be contra-indicated for dogs in renal failure or with heart issues (if your dog does have kidney issues, check out a really informative web site here.) The following foods have been tried and tested by people in the dog fancy and are suggested ONLY as a means to jump start the appetite in a sick or compromised dog: Sardines, canned cat food, Gerber's baby food - especially turkey or sweet potato, braunschweiger, Limburger Cheese, broth, pureed liver, Dinty Moore Beef Stew, yogurt, cottage cheese/cream cheese, canned mackerel, scrambled eggs with cream cheese, chicken noodle soup - and even this one: hard-boiled eggs smashed up in French Vanilla yogurt, slightly warmed.

Sometimes, you may need to "jump start" an appetite with something so enticing, it's irresistible. Here is the original recipe for "Satin Balls," one of the most requested recipes on Wellpet, Showdogs-L, VetMed, and other popular e-mail lists for serious dog people:

10 pounds of cheap hamburger meat
1 lg. box of Total cereal
1 lg. box oatmeal
1 jar of wheat germ
1 1/4 cup veg oil
1 1/4 cup of unsulfured molasses
10 raw eggs AND shells
10 envelopes of unflavored gelatin
pinch of salt

Mix all ingredients together, much like you would a meatloaf. Divide the batch into 10 quart freezer bags and freeze.Thaw as needed and feed raw! (This is also a good way to put weight on a skinny dog, increase energy, and to alleviate itchy, flaky skin). This isn't a substitute for meals, it's meant to whet a dog's appetite. If the dog is eating this eagerly, start mixing it with kibble gradually. The idea is to wean them off the Satin Balls and onto kibble.

Next, we move on to "fixes" that come in a tube or pill. Remember that the point of these products is to stimulate an appetite and are not long term solutions; We start with Re-Vita whose products are said to be effective for problem appetites; "Pet-Tinic" is a liquid dietary supplement containing iron, copper and 5 essential vitamins. The palable meat-flavored liquid is readily accepted and one "tester" reported that it brought back her pet's appetite almost immediately, Because of its contents, you'll want to have your vet's approval before using this. "Nutri-Cal" is pure nutrition that squeezes out like toothpaste; dogs like its taste and it's a quick way to get nutrition into a dog. When diluted with water, Dyne High Calorie Dietary Supplement can be used to combat dehydration and provide energy because each ounce provides approximately 150 calories containing vitamins and minerals that maintain constant therapeutic blood levels.

If none of the aforementioned tips work, this is where I get pretty serious because my own philosophy is that a lack of appetite is a lousy reason for a dog to die. What you'll read next isn't pleasant - but if you love your dog, you have to get nutrition into her. As far as I know,there are four ways to do this when the dog can't eat on his own: syringe food into the dog's mouth, stuff food down the dog's throat, hook the dog up to an IV, or insert a stomach tube. I've done all of them at one time or another. And they all stink, but they're preferable to the alternative: a dog who wastes away and dies.

Syringing: You'll need a couple of large syringes from your vet. Using canned food; determine the amount your dog needs to sustain his weight, divide that amount in half and spoon that much into a blender (you and this blender will become inseparable over the coming days). Add enough warm water to blend easily into a very fine puree and for each meal, gently syringe the puree into the side of the dog's lips. Or, you can cut to the chase. Pry the dog's mouth open and squeeze the syringe plunger down so that the food trickles to the side and back of the dog's mouth. It takes a bit of time to get the hang of this since you don't want the dog to aspirate food into his lungs. Speak to the dog soothingly and praise him when you're done. Remember, it's not the dog's fault he's unable to eat and it's only temporary until the appetite comes back.

Stuffing: This was my least favorite means of getting food into a dog. It was messy and degrading. In a nutshell, you make "food bombs" that are narrow enough to slide down the back of the dog's throat. These "bombs" are a mixture of wet & dry food that's been pureed into a texture that allows shaping. There are folks out there who are really good at doing this - and some dogs who just don't eat well become so used to eating this way that they'll stand calmly, lift up their little heads and open their mouths like guppies in anticipation for the next "bomb." Since all we care about is getting nutrition into the dog, if this works for you,that's what counts.

IV: A "no brainer." At this point, a dog is so ill that this is pretty much the last resort. It's no substitute for the calories gotten from real food, but sometimes it serves as a band-aid until the dog is back on its feet and able to eat the real thing.

Stomach tube: Proverbially speaking, this is what separates the men from the boys. When I was faced with a dog whose heart medication caused anorexia but who was otherwise healthy, I had but little choice to pull out all the stops. Syringe feeding, food bombs - these were not long term solutions. Guided by my vet, we made an informed decision to insert a stomach tube. Mind you, at the time we thought it would be a short term fix until my dog ate on his own. Keep reading.

The first tube put in was an ugly, brown rubber tube that was SO long, it had to be wrapped around my dog's mid section and secured with a lady's tube top when not in use. I prepared the food as if I was going to syringe it into my dog's mouth, only it was syringed into a tube that had been inserted into his side over the stomach. In less than a week, the dog knew the sound of the blender, knew what was coming and would lie down on his side in preparation for his meal.

Each day before I approached the blender, I always offered the dog his meal in a bowl since it was my fondest desire that the dog eat like a dog. After many weeks, however, I knew this wasn't going to happen. Ever. At this point, my vet and I had a frank discussion about options and he mentioned a permanent tube, one inserted from the inside out. The "Bard" was a gastronomy device made of silicon that was successfully used to feed disabled children but had never been used in canines. My nearly 14 year old Puli would be the first dog to have the slick silicon "button" inserted. It fit flush against his stomach and a little "lid" flicked open like the flip-top portion of a tube of toothpaste. Compared to what I had been working with, it was a Porsche compared to an Edsel and no one else ever knew it was there.

The tube enabled my dog to live a couple of more years. Feeding him took less than five minutes and afterwards, he would run with the other dogs,bark into the wind, enjoy the sun on his back and know that I adored him. I would do it again in a heartbeat.

Because of the seemingly radical step we took to ensure this dog's survival, it wasn't something I discussed openly. Too many people out there feel that if a dog can't eat on his own, he's not meant to live. To them I say, "Phooey." The dog wanted to live, to survive and feel the hand of those who loved him rubbing his ears. But he couldn't eat. His spirit was willing and he would have done anything to please me, but this one thing he couldn't do. How then, was I to deny him the one thing I could do to help him?

Cats: Needless to say, cats are not like dogs. They can get liver damage from not eating even for just a day or two. When a cat stops eating, their body will start to use its fat stores as fuel. The old fat stores are mobilized to the liver, which should begin fat burning. But when the fat arrives at the liver, the liver doesn't burn the fat efficiently and it accumulates in the liver.

The resulting liver disorder is known as "hepatic lipidosis", or "fatty liver disease." This condition may be suggested when blood tests show impaired liver function. Getting fatty liver disease is not isolated only to cats, and fasting cats don't always get this condition, they just seem more prone to it when they don't eat.

But according to the Cornell Online Consultant, there are 454 more possible Diagnoses for Feline Anorexia. Wow. A good web site you can visit here explains the different reasons a cat might not be eating, from acid stomach to ulcers and including fatty liver disease. The bottom line, however,is that you have less "wiggle room" when a cat won't eat. Tries these tips:

-Warm the food because warmed food has a stronger smell which will make a cat want to eat.
-Handfeeding: Sit with your cat and talk to her. Offer a little piece of food to her.
-Offer special treats like canned or pouched food instead of dry kibble.
-Offer tuna and cheese or milk or cream, all in small amounts.
-Tasty liquids, like water from tuna packed in water or, rarely, oil. Avoid tuna packed in vegetable broth as itmay contain onions. Try clam juice or low-salt chicken broth. Avoid onions and anything made with bouillan as it's too salty;
-Sprinkle some catnip on the food.

Pull out all the stops and make some Home Made Cat Food with this recipe:
Switch off the protein sources with each batch or two. Switch between:
- Half Pound of minced boneless chicken breast or thigh
- Six Ounces of dark-mean ground turkey or minced turkey
- Half Pound of lean, minced beef
- Half Pound of minced beef, chicken or turkey heart. About three times a week, include one chopped hard-boiled or scrambled egg. Occasionally substitute a five-ounce can of salmon or tuna for the meat. Avoid canned salmon or tuna for cats that are prone to urinary tract infections.

Mix foods together.

There are some drugs that can help stimulate a cat's appetite including Diazepam (Valium). Other drugs to ask your vet about are Periactin (generic name Cyproheptadine), Serax (generic name Oxazepam) and Dalmane (generic name Flurazepam). All have potential side effects so it's important to talk with your vet.

Syringe feeding and feeding tubes as mentioned in the section for dogs is also an option for cats.

Good luck and know that you're not alone. Feeding issues are among the most frustrating of concerns.

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How to Avoid and Treat Eye Infections in Dogs

Pet owners want the best for the pets and that includes keeping their pets healthy by trying to prevent diseases and illnesses and treating them when they occur. Unfortunately eye infections are fairly common in pets. They can crop up on their own or occur when something lodges in the eye. They can also occur when the surface of the eye, called the cornea, gets scratched.

The common warning signs to look out for that your pet has an eye infection are: eye discharge, squinting, redness, cloudiness, and trying to rub and scratch the eye.
Rubbing or scratching of the eye can make things worse for your pet. One of those cone shaped instruments that covers the head will prevent your pet from rubbing their eyes and further irritating the condition.

Eye discharge may be ugly, but it's a valuable warning sign that something is wrong. This is important because infections can progress very quickly and even in some cases cause permanent eye damage. Discharge is a telltale sign of infection and will often be thick, yellow, gray, or green. Any off-colored eye discharge that persists for longer than 48 hours without improvement should be seen by a vet.

Infections of the eye and surrounding structures are common in pets and usually involve the conjunctiva, leading to conjunctivitis or "pink eye." Causes of infections include various bacteria, viruses like the Herpes virus, foreign material or irritants in the eye and even Lyme disease. Eye infections may become chronic if not treated and can cause permanent damage such as blindness if neglected.
Some dog breeds are more likely to get eye infections than others. Before you get a dog, research its breed to see if they are more prone to eye infections.

If you think your pet has an eye infection, you should get them examined at the Vet for a test, treatment, and to prevent permanent damage from occurring. Vets often recommend applying an antibiotic ointment made especially for the eye. Other treatments besides an ointment are eye drops and all natural herbal treatments. Medications can be received from the Vet and there are also many websites that offer medications for dog and cat eye infections, some being homeopathic or all natural medications. If you want to save money, you can usually get medications cheaper online than at the Vet.

To sooth the painful side effects of an eye infection, there is a product called Newtons Homeopathics Eye Irritation. It relieves pain, itching, dryness, swelling, redness, tired eyes, pink eye, and thick yellow discharge of the eyes.

Sometimes your pet will get an eye infection no matter what. You just can't prevent it. However, there are steps you can do to help prevent your pet from getting an eye infection and to maintain optimum eye health. The steps are:

o Always keep your dog head inside moving vehicles

o Check your dog's eyes on a regular basis

o Make sure its annual veterinary checkup includes a thorough eye exam.

o Keep your dog's eyes clean by wiping away any discharge that may accumulate.

There is a product called Halo Herbal Eye Wash which will keep your pet's eyes clean, open tear ducts, and sooth irritated tissue. I keep this handy at home to use on my pets eyes regularly as a way of keeping them clean and infection free.

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Antibiotic For Cat UTI

Finding the right antibiotic for cat UTI may seem like a simple task. Most pet owners would assume the sequence of events goes something like this; call the vet and set up an appointment; tell the vet your story; vet writes antibiotic prescription; cat is cured in 3 to 5 days. It is possible that this series of events could well happen and you may win the lottery as well.  After reading this article on finding an antibiotic for cat UTI you may have a different perspective. Let's start our investigation by giving a general overview of antibiotics and a few cautionary facts.
 
Antibiotics truly are amazing medications that are effective against both bacteria and fungus in and on a cat's body and are considered the first line of defense against cat urinary tract infections. These drugs are specific for certain bacterium. So, one antibiotic will not be effective against all infections. If the wrong antibiotic for cat UTI is prescribed it may not only fail to eliminate the infection but can embolden the bacteria to become stronger, leading to a recurrent or chronic urinary tract infection. Another potential problem is that the large number of antibiotics now available brings with them the new possibility for cats to develop sensitivities and allergies to specific drugs and increases the risk of administration. And still another problem is that certain antibiotics (tetracycline and griseofulvin) for cat UTI can affect the growth and development of unborn or newborn kittens.
 
Your veterinarian will likely require a urinalysis to determine the appropriate antibiotic for your particular situation. He/She will likely prescribe one of the following antibiotics based on a positive result from the urinalysis; Amoxicillin, Ampicillin, Cephalexin, Ceftiofur, Enrofloxacin, Gentamicin, Nitrofurantoin, Tetracycline, and Trimethoprim. If all goes well you should see a dramatic improvement in a few days.
 
While finding the right antibiotic for cat UTI is the direction most cat owners will choose there may be instances where another option is needed. In these unique cases such as recurrent urinary tract infections many cat owners are optioning for natural alternative UTI treatments such as homeopathy. Homeopathic remedies containing herbal ingredients such as uvi ursi that have been shown to possess antibacterial properties and can be used both as a supplemental or a stand alone treatment.
 
Lastly, it is important to seek treatment as soon as possible if you sense your cat may have a UTI. Urinary tract infections in cats can be a sign of an underlying disease. Also, the longer the infection is allowed to manifest itself the greater chance of kidney infection/damage which can be life threatening.

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Cats of the Genus Felis

There are 36 species in the Felid family of cats. The felids fall into two subfamilies, the saber tooth, now extinct and the feline. The felines can be found in Eurasia, Africa and the Americas.

The felines have common traits. They stalk their prey and attack immobilizing them by breaking their backbone with their powerful neck and jaw muscles. Their teeth are designed to stab, bite and slice and their claws are retractable. They can achieve great speeds with their powerful legs. Their tail can be long or short, their fur is soft and they have excellent hearing and sight. They can be a solid color or spotted and can range in length from a foot to 12 feet including the tail.

Of the Felid family, there is the genus Felis of which there are 23 species. The first species is the European Wildcat, Felis silvestris. It resembles a domestic but it is bigger, has black stripes, larger head and teeth and a rounded tail. The base fur is gray with a reddish, yellowish or blackish hue. It is 4 feet in length. It is an excellent climber and can travel from tree branch to tree branch. It usually hunts alone or in pairs. It likes to feed on small mammals, birds, small deer and fish.

The next species is the African Wildcat, Felis lybica. It is also known as a Libyan or tawny. It is slightly larger than a domestic measuring 30 inches long including a 10 inch tail. It hunts at night and feeds on small mammals, birds and reptiles.

The third species is the Jungle, Felis chaus. It is 30 inches long and weighs 20 pounds. It is gray brown in color with light stripes and a black ringed tail. It usually hunts at night but will come out in the day. It is a very good climber and feeds on birds and small mammals.

The fourth species is the Leopard Cat, Felis bengalensis. It measures 32 inches long and has a soft, thick, reddish fur which is white near the stomach. The fur is covered with round spots or stripes. It lives in hilly areas and is a good climber. It feeds on birds and small mammals.

The Manul or Pallas', Felis manul, can be found in the steppes of Asia. It is orange-brown with white and black rings around the eyes. The forehead is gray with black spots and the chin is white. It has long , soft hair and the eyes are positioned high in the forehead. It feeds on rodents, partridges and reptiles.

The Serval, Felis serval, lives in the bush country of Africa never very far from water. It measures 5 1/2 feet in length including a short tail. It weighs 34 pounds and has a small head, large ears , slender legs and thick paws. The body has longitudinal rows and broken rings on the paws and tail. It feeds on francolins, small birds, guinea pigs and small antelope.

The Marbled, Felis marmorata, lives in wooded areas. The fur pattern,blackish spots and stripes sit on a yellowish background. It measures 3 feet in length with half being the tail. It hunts at night and feeds on small mammals and birds.

Temminck's Golden , Felis temminicki, is a 3 foot long wildcat. The fur is a uniform golden-brown with a muzzle of white, gray and black mixture. It feeds on rodents, fawns and birds. The African Golden, Felis aurata, is very similar but smaller.

The Fishing, Felis viverrina, is found near water. It measures 32 inches in length and weighs 17 pounds. Its coat is gray with black spots. It feeds on small mammals and birds.

The Ocelot, Felis pardalis, lives in forests and areas of thick vegetation. Its fur is short and smooth ranging from gray to a yellowish hue. It has gray-black oval shapes with black borders. Its paws and belly are white. It measures 4 1/2 feet in length including a 15 inch tail. It has great climbing ability and likes to sleep in trees during the day. It hunts at night and feeds on agoutis, small deer and opossums. The Margay, Felis wiedii, and the Tiger cat, Felis tigrina, are very similar to the Ocelot but smaller.

The Mountain, Felis jacobita, and Geoffrey's, Felis geoffroyi, are very similar animals found in South America. Their fur is brownish -gray with darker markings on their sides and rings on their tails. Measuring 30 inches in length, they feed on rodents, birds and small mammals.

The Kodkod, Felis guigna, lives in the foothills of the Andes Mountains. It is only 18 inches long and its fur is grayish-brown with rows of darker spots. The tail has black rings. It lives in woodlands and feeds on small mammals and rodents.

The Jaguarundi, Felis yagouaroundi, or otter cat ranges from southern Texas to South America. Measuring 4 feet in length and weighing 20 pounds, it is long and graceful with short legs. The fur is reddish-brown or gray. With its small ears and nose, it resembles a weasel. It is a good climber and hunts at night feeding on small birds, small mammals, frogs and fish.

The Pampas, Felis colocola, is the size of a domestic with a long tail. It is found in South America. The fur is gray with brown markings. It hunts at night for small birds, rodents and mammals.

The Puma, Felis concolor, also known as the cougar or mountain lion, is the largest member of the genus Felis. It can be found in pine woods, tropical forests, prairies and deserts throughout the Americas. It can reach lengths up to 8 feet and can weigh from 80 t0 260 pounds. The fur is sand-colored with the ears, tail tip and part of the muzzle being black. It is a great hunter and feeds on medium sized hoofed animals like deer but will attack almost anything that comes within its range.

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Incontinence in Older Cats

Incontinence in older cats is a somewhat unpredictable condition that may place a cat owner in the awkward position of having to make difficult quality of life choices. While some causes primarily seen in very young cats can be ruled out, others cannot. In this informational pet care article title "Incontinence in Older Cats" we will briefly cover six of the more common conditions that could lead to incontinence in cats and one that is often misinterpreted as incontinence.
 
*Urinary Tract Disease - Urinary tract disease is a broad topic that many require more research on your part. The good news is that if recognized early enough UTD can be treated effectively. The two most common areas of UTD as it applies to incontinence are urinary tract stones and bacterial infection.
 
(a)Urinary tract stones can occur anywhere in the urinary tract and can produce incontinence. These stones are generally a combination of calcium and/or magnesium and can cause partial or total blockage of urine. If the urine backs up into the bladder leakage is a common symptom. In older cats stones can produce the added risk of infection due to an aging immune system. 
 
(b)Bacterial infection - Once bacterial gains access through the urethra infection is likely to occur in older cats. Once the infection starts to spread throughout the urinary tract your cat may start to urinate in inappropriate or unusual places. Also, urination may become painful leading to failure to completely empty the bladder thus producing incontinence or leakage problems.
 
*Bone and joint pain - Arthritis is common in older cats. They just can't quite make it to the litter box. Some simply feel it is more important to avoid the pain than to make it to the litter box. Additionally, this factor should be considered when purchasing new more easily accessible litter boxes
 
*Memory loss - I know it is hard to believe but many cats over the age of 14 have some memory dysfunction. They forget where their litter boxes are located or fail to remember how long it takes to get there. 
 
*Tantrums - Often time's older cats develop an attitude. They are use to being fed at a certain time or receiving special treats. If things don't go as planned they become agitated and feel the only way to get your attention is to let the urine fly. While this is not urinary incontinence sometimes cat owners mistakenly make that assumption, particularly in older cats.
 
*Disease - Certain serious disease such as feline leukemia will lead to incontinence in cats. If none of the more obvious signs are apparent a visit to veterinarian should be considered.
 
*Urethral fatigue - Sometimes the urethra just wears out. It fails to open, close and retain urine as well as it once did.
 
In closing, incontinence in older cats can be caused simply by age or something more serious. Ultimately your veterinarian is probably your best source for determining and treating the specific cause.
 
Additionally, many pet owners are opting for natural supplements for urinary tract health to both prevent and treat many of the common causes of incontinence in older cats.

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Male Cat Behavior Problems - How to Stop Your Tom Cat's Bad Behavior

Owners of male cats face extra challenges as their tomcats often have additional behavior problems compared to female cats. The first of these is that they are more active and need to find the companionship of female cats. As a side-effect of this need, male cats frequently try to leave home. It is not quite running away, as they are quite willing to come home after doing the deed. The problem is that they face a lot of danger outside the house. They will get into fights with other male cats. They may also get run down by traffic. These additional worries of owning tomcats can certainly give their owners premature grey hair.

For these reasons, vets and many animal rights groups strongly recommend that owners neuter their tomcats. Neutered male cats lose that urge to wander, making it easier to keep them close to home. They will stop chasing after the female cats in heat, and stop aggressively fighting with rival tomcats. No more wandering and less fighting - all these mean they are less likely to get badly hurt outside the home. One more side benefit is that they will not produce stray kittens from their unauthorized rendezvous with female cats.

Many vets prefer to err on the side of caution and will not neuter male cats until they are one year old. Others are willing to do it as early as four months old, as some newer studies indicate that younger neutered tomcats do not show adverse reactions. The earlier you get your tomcat neutered, the better. They are less likely to develop the habits of fighting, wandering and chasing after female cats. Despite this, neutering them late is better than not neutering them at all. As long as the habit is no longer being driven by natural instinct, it can be broken and replaced with something else.

Still, neutered or not, tomcats do tend to be more aggressive. While you can never get rid of this aggression completely, you can reduce it over time. One simple way is to put a collar with a bell on your male cat. What does this do? Often, your male cat likes to attack other animals. It will stalk them, and ambush them. It is obvious that the attacker often has the initiative in a fight. If your tomcat can surprise the other cat and pounce first, it is more likely to win the fight. While winning is generally a good thing, in this case it only encourages your cat to get into more fights. Once you bell your tomcat, it will have more difficulty stalking and successfully attacking other cats and animals. Slowly, it will lose the urge to get into fights.

Another problem more common to male cats is spraying. Spraying is different from urination. For one thing, it usually affects vertical surfaces like walls. Your cat does it to mark its territory. Common litter training techniques will not help. Neither will punishment. One thing you can do is to learn where your tomcat's favorite spraying locations are, and clean it with some form of enzymatic solution. Normal cleaners will not work - they do not remove the underlying odors of male cat urine. Your vet or local pet shop will probably have something suitable for you. After cleaning, you can spray one of those "pet behave sprays" to keep kitty away.

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What's Wrong With My Cat's Legs?

Is your cat having trouble walking? Are his feet slipping out from under him? Is he walking on his hocks (the "elbows" on his back legs), or on his wrists in the front? Does he have to lie down after a short walk? These are the symptoms of feline neuropathy.

In some kitties, weak legs can be the first sign of feline diabetes. If you already know your kitty has diabetes, this condition indicates that his blood sugar is out of control. He needs an immediate trip to the vet to get to the bottom of the problem.

Feline diabetes is caused when your kitty's body can't regulate his blood sugar levels. This is because either he's not producing enough insulin (type 1), or his body isn't responding to insulin anymore (type 2). In either case, eye, nerve, and kidney cells are more vulnerable to damage from high sugar levels because, unlike other cells, they don't need insulin to absorb sugar from the blood. There's nothing to stop them from taking in too much sugar, which causes internal damage to these cells. This is why it's so important for diabetics to keep their blood sugar under control.

Damage to nerve cells is called neuropathy. You may be able to improve your kitty's leg function, but it does take time and patience.

Before you can do anything about your furry friend's leg weakness, you do need to be sure his diabetes is under control. Many kitties improve when their sugar levels are controlled. In these cases, the leg weakness may have been caused by an electrolyte imbalance. Often this is because your kitty has been urinating too much, which is his body's way of trying to get rid of excess sugar.

Uncontrolled feline diabetes can also cause muscle wasting, and your buddy's leg problems can be due to muscle weakness. Regular exercise can help rebuild muscle. Gently tug on his legs so that he has to use his muscles to pull away. You can try holding his favorite treat above him as he leans on a footstool so he has to reach up for it. "Baby-walking," where you hold up his front end and walk him between your feet, can be helpful. He's able to move around, but he's not stressing those weakened muscles by putting all his weight on his back legs.

You may be able to help your furry friend by giving him methylcobalamin, also known as methyl B-12. This form of vitamin B-12 is active in spinal fluid. It helps to heal damaged nerve cells and restore the pathways between your kitty's brain and his muscles. Be sure you get methyl B-12, not regular B-12. This supplement is available at health food stores.

Give your fur ball three to five milligrams of methyl B-12 each day. Many cats have shown improvement within a few days, but it may take months for your kitty to recover fully. This is a safe supplement, as it's water soluble. What this means is that any excess leaves your kitty's body in his urine instead of building up in his tissues. Studies have shown that there are no side effects, even at high doses.

Feline neuropathy can be an alarming problem. But with proper blood sugar control, exercise, and the use of methyl B-12, your kitty friend can regain most, if not all, of his leg function.

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How to Keep Your Cat Out of the Christmas Tree

How Do I Keep My Cat Off the Christmas Tree?

Okay, so throughout the year, you buy your kitten or cat climbing posts and shiny, dangling toys that they love to play with. Then comes Christmas time and you walk in with the biggest, shiniest play thing they've ever seen, with not just one, but tons of dangling strings and balls just for them! Combine your cats love for climbing trees with all the new toys hanging from it and you've got yourself one excited kitten and one serious problem!

Cats knocking down and destroying your beautiful Christmas tree is not a new problem. Cat owners have tried everything from tying the tree to the wall, using artificial trees (if your cat's like mine, this makes no difference!), spraying the cat with a water bottle, or using Bitter Apple Spray.

Well, I would immediately disregard the water bottle trick when it involves electric Christmas lights! Bitter Apple works for some, but wears off quickly and must be frequently re-applied with the lights unplugged. Some pet owners have stated their cats actually love the taste, while others claim it works for the cat, but the dog loves it! Lastly, Bitter Apple works as a taste deterrent. If your cat is already tasting the tree, isn't it too late already!? Don't be discouraged. There is a solution available that is completely safe for children and pets and has worked for years for our customers. Keep Away works differently by using smell as the deterrent instead of taste. It produces a pleasant mint smell to us, but to cats and dogs it is the equivalent of us taking a deep sniff of horseradish! Keep Away stops them before they are climbing the tree, swallowing the tinsel and knocking down all the ornaments, or chewing up your favorite shoes!

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Cats, People, and the Black Plague - Those Who Kept Cats Survived

In the long history of human-animals relationships, a few episodes stand out in which one species has made a significant contribution to the survival of another. Rarely do cats get credit for such an accomplishment--more often dogs or horses, and then, usually in times of war--but the Black Plague of Europe is one of those times.

By way of background, the ancient Romans, in their conquest of Egypt, had brought cats home to Europe. Cats subsequently suffered a period of disfavor during the superstitious Middle Ages, for they had become associated with witches and the Devil; some people believed black cats were witches in disguise, or that they assisted witches in performing their craft. Those who kept cats as pets were the objects of much suspicion, and widespread cat hunting led almost to their extinction.

When rats from Asia brought the bubonic plague to Europe via trading ships in the mid-1300s, the epidemic (variously known as the Black Plague, the Great Plague, the Black Death, and the Great Mortality) swept across the continent, resulting in devastating loss of human life. In all, one-third of the population of Europe--some 34 million people--died. In England alone, more than half the human population perished; in some parts of France, ninety percent.

It took the authorities some time to figure out the cause of the problem. At one point they tested the theory that the disease was being spread by dogs and cats; thus the mayor of London ordered the execution of all such pets. Despite the extermination of millions of companion animals, however, the plague did not abate but actually accelerated, for, of course, the elimination of all cats was soon followed by an explosion of the rat population.

Eventually it became evident that people who had kept cats, in violation of the law, fared better; for the cats, according to their nature, killed the rats that carried the fleas that really carried the plague. People slowly began to deduce the rat-flea-disease connection. When the truth finally came to light, cats were quickly elevated to hero status, and soon became protected by law.

The Great Plague ended when the fleas started dying, as a part of their natural life cycle, in the cold of fall and winter. Subsequent plagues would visit Europe over successive generations, and other continents suffered similar outbreaks; it would not be until the 19th century that scientists really began to understand the epidemiology of the plague. Increased sanitary conditions over time helped reduce its incidence, and with the discovery of antibiotics in the 20th century, the threat of the plague was greatly reduced.

Would it be a stretch to say that, by bringing the rodent population under control, cats saved humans from extinction? At least, European humans? At a minimum, cats deserve credit for heroically saving the species that, through ignorance, almost wiped them out.

(C)Lisa J. Lehr 2006

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Help - My Cat Keeps Throwing Up

Most cats, even healthy ones, vomit from time to time. Although it can be very distressing if your cat keeps throwing up, this is perfectly natural and doesn't necessarily mean that there is anything seriously wrong with your cat. There are several non serious factors which may cause your cat to throw up.

You may notice your cat bringing back a meal shortly after eating it; in fact it will often appear to be completely undigested. Cats will often bolt their food, or eat more than their stomach can handle at a time, so the stomach will reject it. This may be more common in multi-cat households, where cats sense competition for their food. Cats' digestive systems are very sensitive, and a sudden change in your cat's food can also induce feline vomiting.

Hairballs are one of the most common causes of feline vomiting. They are caused when your cat ingests fur whilst grooming itself. Long haired cats are more likely to suffer from hairballs, although all cats can suffer from time to time. You should be able to spot clumps of hair in the vomit. Hairballs can be reduced by regular grooming or adding essential Omega-3 Fatty Acids or fish oils to your cat's food to allow cat hair to pass through the cat's digestive tract.

Sometimes your cat may throw up if it has eaten something inappropriate, such as garbage or a poisonous plant. If you suspect that it has eaten something which may be poisonous, such as slug pellets, cleaning fluids, plants etc take it to the vet immediately. Feline vomiting may also indicate that your cat has swallowed something which may cause an obstruction, such as a bone or piece of string. In this case the vomiting may be accompanied by foam or froth around the mouth. Again, take it to the vet if you suspect this.

Cats will often eat grass and other plants; it is thought that this provides them with roughage in their diets. However, it can also cause them to vomit. In this case the vomit will be frothy in appearance, with the plant matter clearly present.

Other non serious causes of feline vomiting are stress and nervousness. Elderly cats can throw up more frequently as their bodies start to wear down and their immune system lowers.

Feline vomiting can also indicate a more serious problem. It can indicate parasites such as worms; you may be able to see these, resembling grains of rice or thread, in the vomit or feces. If you think that your cat has parasites, consult the vet. Regular deworming can help to prevent this.

It can also indicate an infection, such as salmonella, feline leukemia, or a bacterial or viral infection. In this case, the vomiting may also be accompanied by diarrhea. Your vet should be able to give advice on treatment.

Certain diseases can also cause feline vomiting, such as liver disease, kidney disease, Feline Panleukopenia, diabetes and bowel disorders.

If you notice symptoms such as blood in your cat's vomit or other symptoms such as diarrhea, weakness, obvious pain or breathing difficulties, or your cat keeps throwing up for longer than a couple of days, contact your vet as soon as possible.

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Why Do Some Cats Bite When You Pet Them?

Many of us who are parents to cats notice that when we pet them, they sometimes turn around a bite our hands. Why do cats do that? Dog parents smugly state that their dogs wag their tails, pant and lick their hand. They claim that dogs don't bite the hand that pets them. While this is not a competition between cats and dogs, I'll give the dogs this one. I had a beautiful dog for many years (she passed away at 12) and she never bit me when I petted her. However, each and every cat (except one) has nipped at my hand.

So, why do cats bite the hand that pets them? As usual, I decided to do a little research to see if I can find the answer. From what I can tell, it looks like experts do not agree on the reasons for this pet-then-bite behavior, therefore many theories abound regarding what is called petting-induced aggression.

One theory is that unlike dogs, which are more social, petting may be something outside of a cat's normal instinctive behavior. A suggested remedy is that cats need to be socialized to people as very young kittens. Even 5 minutes of human contact each day of a cat's life up to 7 weeks of age will produce a much more trusting cat than those cats that did not have human contact until they were older than 7 weeks. However, this remedy does not explain all petting-induced aggressive behavior since properly socialized cats can still display this behavior. And this remedy does not help those of us who adopted adult cats.

Some experts theorize that a cat may bite once the petting exceeds her sensitivity threshold. While the cat enjoys the human contact at first, the repetitiveness of the petting becomes irritating and the cat turns and bites as a way of saying "Enough". Another theory is that the petting not only causes irritation but that it may also cause static electricity or actual pain because of the cat's nervous system. Or, sometimes the cat may have a pain in a particular area and your touch or even the belief that you will touch that area may trigger the aggressive behavior.

Sometimes cats may find petting so pleasurable that they actually fall asleep (with open eyes). If they wake up suddenly, they may not recognize that they are being petted and may believe that you are trying to confine them. Instinctively they may bite and run before they are fully aware that they were being petted. The final theory I found is one of control. Some cats need to control the situation where they determine when the petting starts and when it stops. What is perceived as petting-induced aggression is a way for the cat let you know who is in charge. I think behavior is more in line with my experience.

No matter the reason for the petting-induced aggression, there are some things that you can do to decrease the chance your cat will suddenly bite you while being petted.
It is important to find out if your cat has a medical condition that may cause pain when he is being petted, therefore take him to the vet for a thorough examination. Petting may cause the pain to worsen or the cat to become anxious that you may touch a painful area.

Like it or not, we just need to realize that some cats simply do no enjoy being petted. Cats are unique and while some cats enjoy human contact, love to cuddled and petted, others do not like human-initiated contact. These cats may enjoy some human closeness like sitting on your lap, but they don't want to be picked up and petted. We need to understand that just like you cannot change the basic personality of humans with whom we interact, you will not be able to change the basic personality of your cat and need to accept him as he is.

While we may miss the warnings, cats seldom suddenly turn and bite. An observant cat parent will notice the following clues before the aggressive behavior starts:

• ears may go flat or back
• stiffening of the body
• twitching of the skin or tail
• dilated pupils
• a low growl
• unsheathing of the claws

If you see any of these signs, stop petting immediately and allow the cat to leave.

Once you are aware of the warning signs, you can begin to predict your cat's petting tolerance level. Begin by timing from when you begin to pet your cat to the first instance of the warning signs. You can do this over the course of a week or so. Then, the next time you pet, make sure that you do not exceed this time limit. However, while timing may provide a good guide you still need to watch out for the warning clues.

You can also change the way in which you pet your cat. Some cats may prefer to receive short small strokes; others prefer to be scratched under the chin or between the ears. Not all cats enjoy whole-body petting. Try to pet you cat using the different methods. It should become pretty clear very quickly which methods are tolerable and which are not.

If your cat does bite during petting, please do not physically correct her as this may cause more aggression. However, you can reward your cat for not biting; you can give your cat a treat after each stroke she tolerates. Over time, your cat may associate the petting with treats and, barring any pain, may experience an increased petting tolerance threshold.

In the end, only you know your cat and while you can try all of the suggestions, you may have a cat that simply does not like to be petted. While it is hard to resist that fuzzy little belly, chin, neck, etc., you may simply have to find another more mutually enjoyable way of expressing your affection to your cat.

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Firefly Bug

The winged beetle known as the firefly or lightning bug is one of the species being studied by the military for its ability to glow in the dark called bioluminescence. This ability may enable the military to create biodegradable landing markers, "friend or foe'"markers, security systems and weapon and supply tracking.

It is found in temperate and tropical environments. It prefers marshes and wet woodlands where food is abundant. Its larvae which also emit light are known as glowworms.

The firefly creates a light from 510 to 670 nanometers with no infrared or ultraviolet frequencies. The light in the lower abdomen can be yellow, green or pale red. The light was first described by the philosopher, Anaximenes, from Greece around 500 B. C. He practiced material monism believing all the world's objects are made of a single element.

It is a soft bodied, brown bug. It will hibernate in the winter and start appearing in the spring. Some feed on slugs and snails while others feed on plant pollen or nectar.

The light occurring in the lower abdomen is a chemical process involving the enzyme luciferase, magnesium ions, ATP and oxygen. It is a warning sign to predators since the bug is distasteful and toxic. It is also used in the selection of a mate. Some females mimic the flashing of a male to attract it and then eat it. Many groups of fireflies will synchronize their flashing as a social interaction.

The light does not produce heat making it undetectable from heat seeking devices. It is equivalent to the light produced by television remote controls. It has been used for centuries in battles to provide light. In World War II, soldiers would rub their wet hands with dried remains to aid in reading maps and compasses.

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